Eating in Jerez, drinking in Sanlúcar jancisrobinson.com

Just three of the places in the Sherry Triangle savoured by Nick this week, not least for their relatively low prices. More to come. Picture of Jerez skyline by Allan Baxter via Getty Images.

When I was last in the sherry town Jerez – 12 years ago, I am ashamed to say – I ended my article by expressing my enthusiasm to return. Better late than never …

When I finally got there again this week, I found a changed city. The charming, historic city centre has more places to eat and drink than ever, and Jerez seems more buoyant and confident despite the challenge of five continuous years of drought. Tourists have returned. There are far more comfortable hotels. And the Jerezanos seem to have far more disposable income.

As in so many Spanish cities, leaving aside the wine connection for a moment, there seems a comfort, a pride, in the profession of the restaurateur. They seem happy in their skins, and the longer they practice their profession, the happier these individuals become. After all, practice makes perfect.